So you want to buy a digital camera, huh?

So you want to buy a digital camera, huh?

The one I recommended is the Panasonic FZ28K, but it has been discontinued. Instead of recommending a particular camera to buy, here's what you should consider when buying a new camera.

1. Price. Cheapest is not always best, especially when buying from the internet. Stick with established dealers like B & H Photovideo in New York City. Are you getting one now, only to buy another one in a year? Or do you want the camera to last you five years. If you want it to last five years, get the most expensive and best camera you can afford. It will last longer.

2.Resolution of the sensor. Average is 12 Megapixels. 10MP is OK. But remember, if you need to crop, (I crop almost every photo), the higher the resolution of the full frame, the better quality of the cropped photo. Absolutely, don't go below 6 MP.

3.Optical Range of zoom of the lens. The higher the better. Don't be fooled by 30 X (10 optical + 3 digital). Digital zoom will cause pixellation and seriously degrade the quality of the photo. I would suggest no less than 12X Optical zoom. 18X is better, 23X is much better.

4.Frames per second. The higher the number, the better chance of getting the shot.

5.How high can the ISO go. ISO is equivalent to film speed. A high number like 1600 is better than 800.

6.Is the noise level low at high ISOs. Some cameras will produce pictures at ISO 1600, but the noise level in the photo makes it almost unusable. Check customer's product reviews on this.

7.Does the camera have image stabilization? It goes by different names depending on the manufacturer. Make sure it does! This makes the difference between a nice crisp in-focus picture and one that is blurry!
8.What is the widest lens opening? This is measured in F stops. The lower the number, the more light that can reach the sensor. Usually F/2.8 is the lowest on non-SLR digital cameras.
Avoid cameras that have a higher number for the lowest F-stop. F/2.8 will allow you to take photos in low light situations, like baseball games at night. Remember, your flash is no good at night beyond 15 feet. It is so humorous seeing hundreds of flashes at the World Series knowing that their puny little flashes are actually doing more harm than good.

These are the basic features you should watch for.

Other features, for instance, Does the camera have provision for an external flash? Beyond about 15 feet, in-camera flashes are practically useless. This feature may not be important to you. Some cameras have the little PC connector on the side to add an external (more powerful flash). My Nikon SB-800 is good to about 65 meters.

Well, I hope this little diatribe has helped you in your decision making process. Now the fun begins. I suggest you go on the web a search, search, search, and make a lot of notes. The worst thing you can do is go down to Wally World and buy a cheap camera. In about three weeks, you will wish you had done your research.

Good luck.

UFO Video and JPEGs.

Hi all, I have some fascinating video and JPEGs for you today.
The following video is of a UFO over Las Vegas, NV. My brother-in-law, Jimmy Crowe, shot this video with his cellphone on January 1, 2009, at 1200 A.M,, just as the fireworks at the space needle were going off. The JPEG frames are in reverse order. Frame 6 at the top, frame 1 at the bottom. The video is below. Click on the JPEGs to make them fullsize.

UFO Video







Frame 6

















Frame 5

















Frame 4

















Frame 3

















Frame 2

















Frame 1

Changing the color of a white background.......

This is the lighting diagram

Double-click the diagram to see it full size.


It 's a cool fact that you can change the background color by changing the color temperature of either the light source falling on the background or changing the color temperature of the camera (if using a digital camera) or of the film (if using film).

The setup was simple. Equipment used: Nikon D300 digital camera. 100 watt tungsten light bulb in a parabolic reflector (garage clamp-light from Wal-mart), white foam-core board (22" x 28"),
Nikon SB-800 flash triggered from main camera.

The subject (Ashlee) was placed about 3 feet in front of the camera. Ashlee was about six feet in front of the white foam-core. The 100 Watt light bulb was the only light hitting the subject. Metering the subject position measured about f/5.6 @ 1/20 second, so the camera was placed in MANUAL at f/5.6 and shutter speed of 1/20 th second.
By the way, the ambient meter is a Minolta AutoMeter IV F. It is a great meter for finding out the flash value and ambient value, plus it has memories and averages, and a lot of stuff I don't even use.

The on-board flash was raised and put in commander mode. I dialed down the camera flash to --- which means it only puts out enough flash (IR) to trigger the SB-800. I dialed down the SB-800 to 1/32 power in manual mode. I did this from the camera.

Now in order to get the color to change from white to blue, I had to change the camera setting to a LOWER temperature. Normal daylight and flash temperature is about 5500, or thereabout.
The color temperature of the light bulb is around 3200 degrees Kelvin, so I dialed in 3230 on the white balance temperature scale to match the light bulb. So, Ashlee has light falling on her that matches the camera, so she will be temperature balanced. With the difference between the flash (5600) and the camera at 3230 degrees Kelvin, the background looks blue.

The resulting photograph is shown above.

Christmas 2008

Haylee playing in the snow, which she rarely gets to see.


















Haylee throwing a snowball at me.








Marialys and Meghan.















Here's some pics from Christmas with family.
This is a shot of Mickey and four of her five children.